���] ���yƷ���I(y��)Ӣ�Z(�����)

Unit 1��Definition, History and China’s Cosmetics Market 001
Chapter 1��Definition and History 001
1.1��Definition 001
1.2��History 002

Chapter 2��China’s Cosmetics Market 007
2.1��Market Overview 007
2.2��Market Competition 009
2.3��Sales Channels 010


Unit 2��Nomenclatures of Cosmetic Ingredients 013
Chapter 3��Brief Guide to the Nomenclature of Inorganic Chemistry 013
3.1��Stoichiometric or Compositional Names 014
3.2��Complexes and Additive Nomenclature 016
3.3��Stereo Descriptors 023
3.4��Summary 024

Chapter 4��Brief Guide to the Nomenclature of Organic Chemistry 027
4.1��Introduction 027
4.2��Substitutive Nomenclature 027
4.3��Creation of Systematic Names 028
4.4��Characteristic Groups—Suffixes and Prefixes 029
4.5��Parent Compounds, Parent Hydrides 030
4.6��Seniority of Parent Compounds 034
4.7��Numbering of Parent Compounds 037
4.8��Functional Class Nomenclature 038
4.9��Specifying Configuration of Stereoisomers 038
4.10��Chemical Abstracts Service (CAS) Names 039
4.11��Graphical Representation 039

Chapter 5��A Brief Guide to Polymer Nomenclature 041
5.1��Introduction 041
5.2��Basic Concepts 041
5.3��Source-based Nomenclature 041
5.4��Structure-based Nomenclature 043
5.5��Nomenclature of Inorganic and Inorganic-Organic Polymers 045
5.6��Traditional Names 045
5.7��Graphical Representations 046
5.8��CA Index Names 046

Chapter 6��International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients 048
6.1��What Is INCI? 048
6.2��Why INCI? 048
6.3��INCI Basics 048
6.4��INCI and CAS 050
6.5��INCI Labeling 051
6.6��What INCI Is Not 051
6.7��Applying for an INCI Name 051


Unit 3��Introduction to Common Cosmetic Products 053
Chapter 7��Decorative Cosmetics 053
7.1��Primers 053
7.2��Concealers 054
7.3��Foundation 056
7.4��Rouge, Blush, or Blusher 056
7.5��Bronzer 056
7.6��Highlighter 057
7.7��Eyebrow Pencils, Creams, Waxes, Gels, and Powders 057
7.8��Eyeshadow 057
7.9��Eyeliner 058
7.10��False Eyelashes 058
7.11��Mascara 059
7.12��Lip Products 059
7.13��Face Powder, Setting Powder, or Setting Sprays 059
7.14��Nail Polish 060

Chapter 8��Skincare Cosmetics 062
8.1��Cleansers 062
8.2��Toners 063
8.3��Hyperpigmentation Treatment 064
8.4��Facial Masks 064
8.5��Moisturizers 065
8.6��Barrier Cream 065
8.7��Sunscreens 066

Chapter 9��Hair Care Cosmetics 069
9.1��Shampoos 069
9.2��Hair Conditioners 071
9.3��Hair Sprays 072
9.4��Permanent Waves 072
9.5��Hair Dyes 072
9.6��Bleaching Agents 074
9.7��Hair Waxes 075
9.8��Relaxers 075
9.9��Hair Straightening 075

Chapter 10��Perfumes 078
10.1��History 078
10.2��What Are the Different Types of Perfume? 078
10.3��How Is Perfume Manufactured? 079
10.4��What Are the Ingredients and Chemical Structures of Perfume? 080
10.5��Why Is Perfume Used? 081
10.6��What Are the Adverse Effects of Perfume? 081
10.7��What Is the Difference Between Perfumes Marketed to Males and Females? 082
10.8��What Do the Terms ‘Fragrance-Free’ and ‘Unscented’ Mean? 082


Unit 4��Ingredients in Cosmetics 084
Chapter 11��Oils 084
11.1��Natural Oils 084
11.2��Synthetic and Semi Synthetic Oils 088
11.3��Mineral Oils 094

Chapter 12��Surfactants 097
12.1��Composition and Structure 097
12.2��Classification 097

Chapter 13��Thickeners 105
13.1��Low Molecular Weight Thickeners 105
13.2��Polymeric Thickeners 105

Chapter 14��Ingredients of Moisturizers 110
14.1��Occlusives 110
14.2��Humectants 111

Chapter 15��Colourants 116
15.1��Inorganic Colourants 116
15.2��Organic Colourants 117

Chapter 16��Sunscreen Agents 122
16.1��Organic UV Filters 122
16.2��Inorganic UV Filters 122
16.3��Hybrid UV Filters (Organic/Inorganic Agents) 123
16.4��Botanical Agents 123
16.5��Safety and Health Hazards of Sunscreen Agents 124

Chapter 17��Skin Whitening Agents 127
17.1��Hydroquinone and Its Derivatives 127
17.2��Retinoic Acid or Tretinoin or Vitamin A Acid 128
17.3��Alpha Hydroxy Acid 128
17.4��Ascorbic Acid and Its Derivatives 130
17.5��Retinol and Retinaldehyde 130
17.6��Arbutin and Aloesin 131
17.7��Glabridin 132
17.8��Kojic Acid 133
17.9��Azelaic Acid 133
17.10��Some Lesser Known Extracts or Molecules for Skin Lightening 134

Chapter 18��Anti-aging Agents 138
18.1��Vitamin A, Vitamin E and Coenzyme Q10 138
18.2��Peptides 139

Chapter 19��Preservatives and Antioxidants 152
19.1��Preservatives 152
19.2��Antioxidants 155


Unit 5��Regulations on Cosmetics 159
Chapter 20��Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics in China 159
20.1��Introduction 159
20.2��CSAR and Its Regulatory System 160
20.3��Definition, Scope and Classification of Cosmetics 160
20.4��Management of Cosmetic Ingredients 163
20.5��Technical Requirements about Safety and Efficacy 164

Chapter 21��Legislative Aspects of Cosmetic Safety in the European Union 168
21.1��Introduction 168
21.2��The Requirements of the EU Regulation 168
21.3��REACH and the Classification, Labelling, and Packaging (CLP) Regulations 172
21.4��Specific Restrictions 172

Chapter 22��The United States’ Regulatory Approach to the Safety and Efficacy of Cosmetics 174
22.1��What Kinds of Products Are “Cosmetics” under the Law? 174
22.2��What Does the Law Say about the Safety and Labeling of Cosmetics? 175
22.3��Does FDA Approve Cosmetics Before They Go on the Market? 176
22.4��Who Is Responsible for Substantiating the Safety of Cosmetics? 177
22.5��Can FDA Order the Recall of a Hazardous Cosmetic from the Market? 177
22.6��What Actions Can FDA Take Against Companies or Individuals Who Market Adulterated or Misbranded Cosmetics? 177
22.7��Can FDA Inspect Cosmetics Manufacturers? 178
22.8��Does FDA Test Cosmetics or Recommend Testing Labs? 178
22.9��Do Cosmetics Firms Need to Register with FDA or Get an FDA License to Operate? 178


Unit 6��Formulations, Technologies, Analyses and Packaging of Cosmetics 180
Chapter 23��Formulations, Technologies and Analyses of Cosmetics 180
23.1��Example 1: The Manufacture and Analyses of a Cream Formulation 180
23.2��Example 2: The Manufacture and Analyses of a Suncream Formulated with Thermal Spring Waters from Ourense (NW Spain) and Sargassum muticum Extracts 183
23.3��Example 3: The Manufacture and Analyses of Several Hair Conditioner Products 185
23.4��Example 4: The Manufacture and Analyses of Lipsticks, Lip Balms and Skin Creams Containing Alkenones 188

Chapter 24��Cosmetic Packaging 195
24.1��Description 195
24.2��Purpose of Cosmetic Packaging 195
24.3��Packaging in Multiple Layers 196
24.4��Standards and Regulations 196
24.5��Environmental Aspects 197


Unit 7��Safety Testing, Efficacy and Sensory Evaluation of Cosmetic Products 199
Chapter 25��Safety Testing of Cosmetic Products 199
25.1��Introduction 199
25.2��Regulatory Requirements for Cosmetics Safety Assessments 200
25.3��Genotoxicity Assessment of Cosmetic Products 203
25.4��Skin Sensitization Assessment of Cosmetic Products 204
25.5��Endocrine Properties Assessment of Cosmetic Products 205
25.6��Assessment of Dermal Absorption of Cosmetic Products 206
25.7��Skin and Eye Irritation Assessment of Cosmetic Products 207

Chapter 26��Efficacy of Cosmetics 208
26.1��Evaluation of the Day and Night Creams 208
26.2��Clinical Study of Safety and Skin Efficacy of the Day and Night Creams 209
26.3��Statistical Analysis 211
26.4��Results and Discussion 211

Chapter 27��Sensory Evaluation of Cosmetic Products 214
27.1��Example 1: Sensory Evaluations of Personal-care Products Formulated with Natural Antioxidant Extracts 214
27.2��Example 2: Sensory Evaluation of a Suncream Formulated with Thermal Spring Waters from Ourense (NW Spain) and Sargassum muticum Extracts 218


Unit 8��Biotechnology Applied to Cosmetics 222
Chapter 28��Active Ingredients Obtained by Biotechnological Processes 222
28.1��Growth Factors 223
28.2��Enzymes 223
28.3��Stem Cells 225


Appendix ��: Names and Symbols of Selected Elements 227

Appendix ��: Multiplicative Prefixes 228

Vocabulary 229